View of Teplice

Teplice

Where the strolling came to an end.

Stage two, stop three.

Teplice

Teplice is a spa town in north-west Bohemia, set beneath the Ore Mountains 25 km west of Ústí nad Labem. The town was long known in German as Teplitz.

In his 1836 book "An account of the most frequented watering places on the continent" Edwin Lee describes the town as

This small town lies about half way between Dresden and Prague, in a fertile valley, bounded on the north-west by the Erzgebirge, and on the other sides by gently rising hills. It is a clean but not handsome town, most of the streets being narrow; the hotels are, however, numerous and large, the accommodations good, and the walks and drives agreeable. Teplitz has long been a favourite summer retreat for crowned heads, diplomates, and persons of rank. In 1833, 5300 persons used the baths. These consisted, for the most part, of Germans, Russians, and Poles. There are altogether eighty-four baths in Teplitz and Schoenau, independently of those in private apartments. Most patients, after having employed the water for some time, experience a degree of lassitude and indisposition which lasts for a longer or shorter period, but which is generally succeeded by a sensible amelioration of their health.

Seume and Teplice

In 1808, Seume fell seriously ill with a kidney and bladder ailment and fell into financial difficulties

In 1809, Seume unsuccessfully sought a Russian officer's pension. He made a second attempt through Christoph Martin Wieland.

On June 3, 1810, Seume traveled to Teplitz (Teplice, Czech Republic) with borrowed money for a spa treatment; he died there on June 13. Three days after the news of his death, Wieland received notification that his application for a pension for Seume had been successful.

The writer grew increasingly ill, increasingly poor, and increasingly desperate. He more and more frequently toyed with an old thought: suicide. His many friends, not only in Leipzig, helped him, presumably also financially. One offered a final attempt to mediate regarding his pension: the poet Christoph Martin Wieland (1733-1813) wrote to the Dowager Tsarina, whom Seume had met in the summer of 1805. And the famous Baltic German Baroness Elisabeth von der Recke (1754-1833) took him to Teplitze, now Teplice in the Czech Republic, for a spa treatment. She was close to Seume when he died on June 13, 1810. She arranged for a dignified burial and a monument in Teplitz. It would have been the only Seume monument were it not for another one in Bremen.

Seume in Teplitz is a biographical and fictional narrative written by German author Volker Ebersbach. The book describes Seume's final days in Teplitz:

The publishers Hartknoch and Cotta make it possible for him, by means of advances, to take a cure in Teplitz. Seume arrives on 3 June.

The kidney disease, which had already prevented his father from reaching old age, worsens abruptly. While he is dying, his tenancy agreement expires, and the landlord insists on a move. Seume has already agreed to this, but on 13 June death occurs.

On 15 June 1810 Seume is buried in Teplitz.

Volker Ebersbach - Seume in Teplitz

Beethoven and Goethe in Teplitz.

Seume monument

Seume monument in Teplice in 1898

1898

Seume monument in Teplice

Now

My time in Teplice

Day One

Arriving on the lunchtime train from Ústí nad Labem I was immediately struck by the fine arched ceilings of the Neo-Romanesque interior of the train station

Interior of Teplice train station
Interior of Teplice train station

I had a Vietnamese lunch at a nearby restaurant and booked into my Airbnb for a well deserved afternoon nap.

In the late afternoon, I wandered through the town to the Castle Square...

In the above image of me, note the balconies on the right of the building behind me. There is a plaque on the wall of the building commemorating the meeting of the three monarchs in 1813:

In the balcony hall of this house in September and October of the year 1813, the Austrian Emperor Franz I, the Russian Czar Alexander I, and the Prussian King Frederick William III discussed together their rise against Napoleon and they closed their alliance pact, which prepared the basis for the political power system in Europe following the Napoleonic Wars.

Food and Drink recommendations

Hospudka Hlubina in Teplice

Hospůdka Hlubina

Restaurant in Teplice

View on Google Maps

A friendly local restaurant for a drink and something to eat after arriving in Teplice.